She had her little diva moment, and she messed up my plans for the week of 4/20, but Miss Mary Jane has finally arrived!
Melt Cosmetics released their new palette, Mary Jane, and it dropped just in time for the Sephora VIB sale! I’ve been enjoying Melt Cosmetics a lot, but their palettes are just too expensive. $58 for a 10-pan palette is steep even if the quality is killer, and Melt has been a little hit and miss. I ordered it the day the sale opened, April 9, thinking that would be more than enough time to get it in so that I could have a review out on April 19 for Makeup Monday and use the palette in a look with the Smoke Sessions palette for a special “Face 420.” Unfortunately, the USPS had other plans and my package, while it was shipped fairly quickly, sort of wandered around for a while before finally being delivered on the 20th.
With her journey finally at an end, it’s time to dig in and see how this palette performs. All swatches are done over the Kaleidos Makeup Tone Activator eye primer with a finger swatch on the left and a brush swatch on the right. The top photo is under my studio light with no flash, and the bottom photo is under the same lighting with a flash.
L to R: MaryJane, Gaspar, Sweet Lucy, Bamba, Sinsemilla
MaryJane is a light yellow gold with some subtle greenish reflect. This is a chunky shimmer that doesn’t really apply well with a finger and starts to get areas of hard poan really easily. It’s ok with a brush, but I would suggest foiling to get the smoothest application as it can be a bit chunky and inconsistent when applied dry. Gaspar is an olive brown matte. This one looks much lighter in pan than it applies. Sweet Lucy is a medium-deep bronze brown shimmer. This is a more full-bodied shimmer, and is more typical of the shimmers in the palette (MaryJane and Kali on the end seem to be a different formula from the other shimmers). It’s a nice rich color. Bamba is a cooler brown shimmer with bits of taupe-y silver reflect running through it. Sinsemilla is a deep, very cool-toned brown matte.
L to R: Santa Maria, Rubia, Bo, Mari, Kali
Santa Maria is a medium cool-toned brown shimmer with gunmetal silver running through it. Rubia is a medium brown matte, leaning a bit cool but still fairly neutral. Bo is milk chocolate brown shimmer with silver reflects. Mari is a light, cool-leaning tan matte. Kali is another one of those extra chunky shimmers like MaryJane. It’s a paler, more silver-infused yellow gold, and it has the same struggle with finger application and the same tendency toward hard pan.
Overall with this palette, I feel conflicted. Just in terms of basic performance, it doesn’t seem on par with some of their recent releases like She’s In Parties or the Beetlejuice palettes, but the color story is rather interesting. On the surface, the browns are pretty basic neutral to cool-leaning browns, but the shimmer shades all have these little spots of silver throughout that aren’t exactly mixed in with the rest of the shadow. It leads to an interesting application that is hard to describe – I want to call it “marbled,” but it’s not as obvious as that. It’s definitely unique.
In terms of packaging, this is where Melt pretty much always shines. I love the raised letters (they remind me of the letters on the Urban Decay Vice palettes from back in the day), but instead of just being colorful and reflective, they are clear and hollow, and the inside has loose silver glitter! It’s a very cool effect and I love the way it looks. Melt very rarely makes a misstep when it comes to their palette design!
I wish the same could be said for the performance. The shimmers here are all a bit chunky, though most of them are workable. MaryJane and Kali, however, are very difficult, and as the lightest shades in the palette, they really are necessary to add some variety to the looks you can create. I know that this is supposed to be a different interpretation of a smoky eye palette, but without those two light shades, that’s pretty much all you can do: smoky eyes that are just going to be variations of the same few browns with silver-infused shimmers.
And I just can’t get over the price. If you’re going to charge almost $60 for 10 pans of eyeshadow, those 10 pans had better be impressive. They need to be blendable and workable, and these just take more work than you would expect at that price. I love that they are bringing us interesting and inventive color stories, and I love that they really embrace their themes and bring us gorgeous packaging, but when it comes to delivering a product that lives up to the price tag…I’m afraid they’ve missed the mark on this one.
If you want to see my video where I ranked all of my Melt Cosmetics palettes on performance and presentation, I’ll include it below. I’ve added a couple of palettes to the collection since this was done – be sure to hit me up on my socials if you want to see a sequel!